Audrey Schilt – Ralph Lauren Designer

AudreySchiltAmericanArtistMag

From American Artist 2006:

Working for one of the most revered names in fashion would intimidate most designers. ButAudrey Schilt, the creative director of collection at Ralph Lauren, has risen to the challenge and even learned a thing or two from the man renowned for his deft drawing ability. “Ralph has really taught me to edit my line,” says Schilt, who trained at FIT and began her career as a fashion illustrator for Bergdorf Goodman. “When I begin a sketch now, I look at it as a composition. I’m looking at the shapes and the shapes within shapes,” she says. “At the same time, my sketches are technically and proportionally accurate—very edited. Ralph has really taught me attention to detail without overdoing it. He tells me, ‘Say it once. Sweep the line on the paper and let it be; don’t draw and redraw the same lines. Say it simply.'”

Schilt’s accurate simplicity is evident in all her designs, most notably in the clean lines of her aviator-themed sketches, one of which turned up in the Ralph Lauren Fall Collection 2005ad campaign. Arriving at this collection, however, involved a more complex process, one that centered on Schilt’s strength as a sketcher. “First Ralph had this idea of a 1930s aviator theme, but he wanted it updated, contemporary. So I began sketching all these concepts: taking a leather jacket and making it look more modern, taking the material from the aviator scarf and sketching a shirt and gown with the same feel—these sketches were so important in carrying Ralph’s imagined idea to a visual reality. I had to conceptualize this theme, this girl, the clothing, all into one drawing.”

For this collection, it was a success. But that is not always the case. As Schilt has learned, when designing for a big name in fashion, one not only has to have a skillful hand but also a strong backbone. “I’m working directly with a designer wh could change his mind on a dime, and I have to change with him,” the artist admints. “I am probably doing dozens of sketches a day. I have two piles on my desk: an ‘accepted’ pile and a ‘rejected’ pile. At the end of the day, the rejected pile has about 40 sketches and the accepted pile has about five or six. That’s how many drawings have to be done for every one that makes the collection.” Luckly Schilt has a penchant for drawing, admitting that if she wasn’t a designer she’d probably be a fine artist. “That’s how much I love art,” she says. “My office is filled with art books and art magazines that I am constantly referencing for inspiration.”

Searching for inspiration is rarely a necessity at a label where the muse is, quire literally, delivered to you. To spark creativity for a collection, the Ralph Lauren design team assembles a “rig” of eclectic material—unusual textures and fabrics, clothing, and jewelry—from which Schilt spends a good part of her day sketching. Using Pismacolor colored pencils to draw multiple renderings of her rig-inspired visions. Schilt shows her sketches for Lauren, hoping they have captured the theme of a future collection. “He might say,’Oh, I love the feel of that girl, but I don’t like her skirt.’ So, then I go back and sketch and re-sketch until I ‘get it,'” she reveals. “But that’s what I love about working for Ralph Lauren. He’s never satisfied—you feel like you’re only as good as your last sketch, which forces you to constantly improve artistically.” http://audreyschilt.com/press/?id=20061201

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AudreySchiltArtFashion

From Art of Fashion 2009

Fashion artist, illustrator and designer, Audrey Schilt, is celebrating her 22 year collaboration with American tastemaker Ralph Lauren on display at the Fashion Institute of Technology. The show, Art of the Collection, documents the designer’s relationship through illustration as Lauren’s Polo/Ralph Lauren brand became the iconic American lifestyle. As the Creative Director of Collection, VP, Audrey worked side by side with Ralph, conceptualizing and sketching from the design studio to runway.

The exhibition, informally presented in the school’s D building lobby and visible by street level, captures perfectly “7th Ave’s” frenetic pace, showcasing Schilt’s flowing gestural line rapidly expressing ideas. The sweeping large scale sketches bring back memories of your favorite Ralph Lauren collections, celebrities seen on the red carpet, and the emotional editorials shown everywhere, but Audrey’s journals, working out the concepts, and mini sketches planning the runway shows, give insight to the symbiotic relationship between design and illustration. Most important, the human form always present while simply gestured in Schilt’s body of work, reminds the viewer that fashion, not just a concept, is intended to be worn, in the lifestyle, with a definite point of view. http://audreyschilt.com/press/?id=20091211

Check Out the Audrey Schilt Portfolio:  http://audreyschilt.com/portfolio/

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Gwyneth Paltrow wore this gown to the 1998  Academy Awards

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Emmy Rossum wore this gown to the 2005 Golden Globes

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 The Illustrations of Audrey Saltzman-Schilt

Shilt graduated from the Fashion Institue of Technology in 1965

She spent her career sketching for Ralph Lauren, Halston, and other

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About jackikellum

Jacki Kellum is a Fine Artist, a Designer, and also a writer. For one of her graduate programs, she wrote her thesis on William Blake. Like Blake, much of Kellum's work is about childhood and lost innocence. Also like Blake, Kellum strives to both write and illustrate her work. .
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